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Mar
16
Capuchin Crypt - Santa Maria della Concezione
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A first time visitor to Rome would have no shortage of interesting destinations to visit from the Colosseum to the Vatican and any number of highlights in between, one is not starved of choices when visiting this amazing city. Most visitors would have the big items on their list in addition to those above the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain would also be high on the list but one that is less known but is as equally worth a visit is the crypt below the Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini or Our Lady of the Conception of the Capuchins. The church is located off Via Veneto and close by the Piazza Barberini. It is not the easiest place to track down and I had spent some 20 minutes trying to locate the Church but once found it was worth the visit.
The Capuchin Crypt is quite unique, upon entry you see the wide eyed faces of amazement of other visitors only metres inside the entrance. At that point you realise you are going to see something different. The crypts I have previously visited around Europe have been much different to this. Most crypt’s don’t only display the bones in such a vivid way, however the Capuchin Crypt is very different. The Crypt is only small but contains over 4000 bones of the Capuchin friars that had been collected between 1528 and 1870. What makes a trip to the Capuchin Crypt so different is the decorative pattern that the bones are displayed and the bizarre adornment of bones. The bones have been fashioned in the style of Baroque and the Rococo style and are featured in only a handful of displays that will leave a lasting impression. Some skeletons are intact and draped in Franciscan habits where other displays feature an array of bones from that adorn the walls and arches of the display. The most remarkable display is three Franciscan friars who are posed in a standing formation surrounded by skulls adorning the walls. This display alone features hundreds of skulls and is best described as macarbe but cannot fail to fascinate. I stood next to a family with two teenage children looking at this display and I could see the look of amazement not just on the children but parent’s faces. It was one thing I don’t think they will forget anytime soon.
If you are in Rome and have an hour spare and looking for something unique that will stay with you for your life then you have to check this place out. It is not easily found but worth the trip and while you walk away from the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain feeling a bit drained from the massive crowds the quiet Capuchin Crypt will be a nice change and will remain in your thoughts far longer than many other sites you will see in Rome.
To check out the official site and see some of the Capuchin Crypt displays, click here.
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Mar
15
Spanish Steps
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The Spanish Steps are one of the most visited sites in Rome. A City like Rome contains no shortage of highlights with the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Roman Forum, Vatican and the list goes on but the Spanish Steps loom large.
Naturally I was curious what made the Spanish Steps so unique and rank among some of the other more remarkable historical sites in Rome. I was well situated to the Spanish Steps staying less than 100 metres away it was a fantastic location to explore all the delights that Rome has to offer. During my 5 days in Rome I kept returning to the Spanish Steps many times each day, it just has some quality that I find draws people to sit on the steps, watch others walk by and just take in Rome. Much like the Trevi Fountain it is virtually always packed in the evening but if you the morning around 9am it can still be quiet. But the Spanish Steps are not best to be seen when quiet, you need to see it as the sun sets and the crowds flock to take in the night in an amazing part of Rome.
The Spanish Steps climbs a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna to the Piazza Trinita dei Monti at the top where the Trinita dei Monto church takes pride of place. The Spanish Steps has 138 steps and was build in 1723 to 1725. While the steps are nothing remarkable they are a magnet for tourists and also those that prosper on tourism, you will be able to pickup that magnet of Rome you have been thinking about buying to take back home. Also if your a bit thirty you will be able to buy a Coke for about 4 Euro but it you walk another hundred metres down the road McDonald’s will provide the same service for half the price. The Spanish Steps in the evening is packed, you can see the tourist groups arrive and the local guide holding the paddle guiding people around talking about the local sites of Rome. It is worth watching just finding a spot on the steps and watching all that goes on in the Piazza Spagna below. Rome which is remarkable during the day comes alive at night, you get a far greater appreciation for the beauty of Rome at night and few better places to take in the energy of Rome than the Spanish Steps.
Every day in Rome for me included a return to the Spanish Steps as the energy and beauty of the Roman City is ever on display here. If you have been struggling in the heat of a Roman summer day or taking in the hectic tourist sites like the Colosseum then take some time out of your evening and spend it relaxing at the Spanish Steps watching time drift slowly. You have everything you need around you from tourist shops in the Piazza di Spagna to the vibrant restaurant’s nearby and the amazing Gelato shops that serve among the finest Gelato you will experience.
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Mar
8
My vision of the Arc de Triomphe before visiting Paris was of naturally a moderately sized structure. On arrival I was soon to realise this was far bigger than I had imagined and the pictures I had seen in guide books did not do it justice. The Arc is over 50 metres high, 45 metres wide and 22 metres deep. It was huge and upon first site like most other things in Paris I was captivated. The Arc de Triomphe is clearly visable from the commencement of the Champs Elysees near the Lourve palace several kilometres away.
Commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon I to commemorate the success of his imperial armies after the victory at Austerlitz it is the world’s largest triumphal arc. Designed by Jean Chalgrin, it was completed in 1836 in the reign of Louis Phillipe and was inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus. Situated in the centre of the Place Charles De Gaulle (Place de l’Etoile) at the Western end of the Champs Elysees it forms a symetry with each of the 12 avenues which are all clearly visable from the top of Arc de Triomphe. Since 1920 the base of the Arc has housed the tomb of the unknown soldier which commemorates the dead from the first and second world wars.
The Arc de Triomphe is another example of the grandeur and amazing vision of French design. At the base of each pillar are huge relief sculptures that provide amazing detail and refined vision. These are the equal of any great sculpture you are likely to see and the fact they are buried within the pillars adds an element of amazement and vision to the Arc. The Arc is inscribed with the major victories of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars and the names of generals are included on the inside of the pillars.
The Arc is not the only highlight of the area. The Arc forms the centre of a massive roundabout that highlights much of what Paris is when visiting. Cars zig zag in and about, cutting each other off in a random pattern that defies logic. Just when you think traffic looks logical a bus pulls out into the middle of traffic playing chicken with all forms of transport and you just wait for something bad to happen but on my trip nothing did. I had heard many stories of this roundabout and accidents but it seemed insane but it worked. I would definately suggest upon visiting the Arc de Triomphe that you take the time just to watch the traffic even for 5 minutes, it’s remarkable. Due to the placement of the Arc in the middle of this six lane or something roundabout (sometimes it’s three and other times seven) entry to the Arc is best taken by going down the underground entrance from the Champs Elysees.
No trip to the Arc is complete without a walk to the top. Click here to check current entry times and prices. The walk up the Arc de Triomphe is a winding walk and could take a toll on the elderly or unfit. An elderly couple looked like they were doing it tough and were paused about half the way up looking a bit red in the face, several minutes later I saw them at the top so they made it. The site from the top is amazing, 12 avenues in near perfect alignment and some of the finest views in Paris await you. 50 metres above France provides some stunning views down the Champs Elysees and the other avenues of Paris. Paris is one of the most articulate and well designed cities and visitors are blessed by a city that has taken great pride in maintaining uniformity and structure which make Paris all the more unique. The Arc de Triomphe is another of the must see sites of Paris and if you had only one day in Paris it would be hard to argue that you would add this to your list along with the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral and the Louvre.
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Mar
3
Notre Dame Cathedral
Filed Under Paris, france | 4 Comments
Notre Dame Cathedral looms large in the mind when considering destinations to visit in Paris. To many the Notre Dame Catherdal was immortalised by Victor Hugo in the famous novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame. This story has also been made into several movie versions none more arguably better than the 1939 version with Charles Laughton and Maureen O’Hara. If your planning a trip to Paris and Notre Dame Cathedral you could do worse than view this film prior, click here to review details on IMDB.com.
The Notre Dame Cathedral was built between 1163 and 1250 and is a great example of early French Gothic architecture. By the 19th century the Cathedral had fallen into a state of disrepair. Had it not been for the writer Victor Hugo and artists such as Ingres our chance to see the Notre Dame may not have happened. At one stage it was considered that it would be destroyed due to the sorry state the Cathedral had falled into during the 18th century when neoclassicists had ignored Middle Age masterpieces such as Notre Dame Cathedral. During this period they had even replaced the stained glass of the cathedral with normal glass further demonstrating the lack of respect for such a historical site. It was in the19th century that the Middle Age period was viewed with a romantic notion and through Victor Hugo and other french artists it inspired the renaissance that we see today when we visit Notre Dame Cathedral.
The Notre Dame Cathedral is another of the most popular destinations in Paris. If you can capture a photo where few people are around then it is either very early in the morning or the French have won the football world cup. Tourists flock in the early hours of the morning to capture some tranquil time on the edge of the river Seine and Ile-de-la-Cite and wander around the Notre Dame Cathedral in amazement. A trip to the Cathedral is not just a trip inside Notre Dame you can also visit the Bell Tower and the Crypt that lies at the front of the Notre Dame plaza. If you have the time I recommend a visit to all three as it’s a wonderful chance to experience once of the great historical sites not just of France but a Cathedral known throught the world. However, the Crypt story is one for another day.
When first laying site on Notre Dame Cathedral the enormity of the whole site almost takes you breath away. Depending on which entrance or side you approach the Cathedral from you will be blown away by the intricate architecture and will appreciate why it took from 1163 to 1250 to construct. The Western facade is where the traditional entrance to the cathedral is located (see picture). This is always swarming with tourists and you will often see a line for entry into the Cathedral. I was lucky to be able to time my arrival well and slipped straight in just as I saw several tour bus companies arriving to drop off tourists to visit. The immediate grandeur grabs you upon entry within the Cathedral as the enormous stained glass windows and high ceiling capture the imagination. It is hard to fathom that this has stood for the best part of 800 years and could provide some amazing fly on the wall stories of life in Paris over the centuries.
To visit and experience Notre Dame Cathedral makes one realise that we are blessed to still see this in much of it’s former glory. It must have been a beacon that would have dwarfed anything in Paris during the Middle Ages. For those looking for momento’s you can even press you own Notre Dame Cathedral coin, naturally feeling like a keepsake I popped my change into the machine and out popped a nice sparking gold plated coin. While not thinking it will make me rich it provides rich memories whenever I glance at my coin.
After departing the Cathedral I journeyed outside again but just to take in the amazing architecture. The flying buttresses which have been incorporated were not in the initial plans for Notre Dame but they were included and are one of the earliest examples of this design. After taking in more architecture and just admiring the efforts and design that went into the cathedral I joined an hour long queue to the bell tower. Now this is the area where the classic finale scene from The Hunchback of Notre took place and was a must see destination on my time spent in Paris. From below I could see the gargoyles perched on the tower as though they were guarding the Cathedral.
I could hardly wait to climb the stairs and being only about 50 people from the front I thought by French standards and my experience in Paris I would be up the tower in 10 minutes, wrong. After a wait of about one hour I was released along with another 5 people to commence the walk up. Now these stairs were winding and hard work. Three young women were in front of me and after bolting ahead and after about two minutes I passed them as the were standing stiff puffing and one looked very red. I thought if young people were having problems how would the near 70 year old Italian lady behind me go. I was thinking not all that good. After a dizzying experience I ascended the top, while I could not climb to the very top bell tower and it was wet on the day I visited I was able to experience something akin to what the bell ringers of the day must have experienced as I gazed out below upon the amazing city of Paris. This view made you appreciate the uniformity and beauty of Paris in much the same way the first and second level of the observation decks on the Eiffel Tower provide.
My day was complete when I could get up close and personal with a gargoyle after viewing the bells. For those wondering, bell ringers don’t exist at the Cathedral now, these days electric motors do all the work saving the ear drums of those early bell ringers. I would consider at least three hours are needed at Notre Dame Cathedral. After you wait to enter the Bell Tower, visit the crypt and Cathedral the best part of three hours will disappear quickly. If your fascinated by architecture like me then give yourself a few more hours as I sat and just gazed at different parts of the Cathedral taking in the amazing gothic structure. To check further details, visit the official site here. One tip though it’s in French but you can logically work out opening and closing times from the link. If your interested in Paris and a visit to the Eiffel Tower click here to read my about my trip to the Eiffel Tower.
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Mar
2
A visit to the Eiffel Tower
Filed Under Paris, france | 8 Comments
31 March 1889 may not have been perceived as a momentus day in Paris at the time but given hindsight it is one of the major days in French history. While historically it can’t compare to the French Revolution or other great moments in French history it is arguably what has made Paris the great romantic capital of the world. 31 March 1889 is now famous for the day the Eiffel Tower was born. Built for the Universal Exhibition in celebration of the French Revolution it was derided at the time and little could anyone imagine apart from Gustave Eiffel that is would take it’s place as one of rhe world’s most iconic destinations.
Since those early day’s much has changed, in excess of 6 million people visit the Eiffel Tower every year and it is universally loved by Parisian’s and visitors alike. The Eiffel Tower is Paris, it inspires romance and is so dominant that you can’t help by be in awe of the structure. Construction of the Eiffel Tower began in 1887 and concluded approximately 2 years and 2 months later where it was unveiled on 31 March 1889. Composed of 2,500,000 million rivets and weighing a total of 10,100 tons, the Eiffel Tower stands 324 metres including the flagpole.
It’s hard not to fall in love with the Eiffel Tower when you first see it. When most people arrive in Paris this is the first place they visit and it’s easy to understand once you see it for the first time on the horizon. The Eiffel Tower is busy year round and even arriving at 9am is not guarantee you will be able to access the stairs or elevator without a crowd. The weather on my visit was excellent and after walking around the base of the Eiffel Tower and admiring it from every conceivable angle I decided to climb the stairs. After a wait of approximately 30 minutes to gain entry and proceed put the security check where bags need to be opened I was beginning my walk to the first floor.
For anyone contemplating the stairs these are not for the faint of heart and do require some degree of personal fitness or alternately take your time as you have about 350 steps until you reach the 1st floor observation deck. After finally arriving on the 1st floor I was greeted with an amazing view of Paris. For a brief moment I was wondering if life could get much better, afterall I had just climbed 350 steps and I had an awesome view across Paris, certainly one of the great architecturally designed city’s of the world. Still I did not linger long on the 1st floor and braved the second set of stairs.
This was hard work the second time round and my usually fit and ever propelling legs were starting to tell me that I should not have attempted this. Still after another 350 or so steps I was at the 2nd floor observation deck and where I thought the views were impressive previously I was now blown away. I immediately went about taking the same photo’s taken on the 1st floor but the additional height made them much more spectatular. The views to Sacre Coure in the Montmarte district and out past Montparnesse have to be seen to be believed. After a brief stop in the packed out and over-priced gift shop I bought a ticket to take the elevator to the top.
For those that walk to the second floor you can take the elevator back down if you like to safe the walk back down alternately you can do as I do and buy a ticket to the top! After a good 20 minute wait in a long line I was on my way to the top in a very cramped elevator. The elevator conductor’s sure know how to maximise the people that fit in these as I was crammed into a tiny spot in the back corner with my arm’s locked by my side.
After arriving at the top the view is remarkable and while it affords impressive views I found it was just too high to appreciate the archtitectural efforts of the Paris town planners. The top has an indoor observation facility that enables you to learn the history of the Eiffel Tower and also points out the different districts. It is certainly worth spending some time viewing this and learning more as it is in a memory that will stay with you for life. I made the most of the outdoor observation deck at the top to take some more photo’s before the elevator returned me to the bottom of the Eiffel Tower.
I spent the best part of half a day at the tower and when not climbing I was sitting nearby just observing the tower in all it’s amazement and the steady stream of visitors that came and went all day. I visited around 1pm with the plan to take advantage of quiet spot while people were having lunch but I actually re-visited the next day prior to 9am and it was nearly as busy so I would recommend a morning visit but it will generally be busy year round. If your in Paris at night, aim to re-visit the Eiffel Towel or view the Eiffel Tower from the Trocadero or Champs de Mars as the Eiffel Tower offers for a brief period an amazing light show that looks like stars on the tower. It is dazzling and you have to be made of wood to not feel a buzz when you see the Eiffel Tower.
Click here to check opening times. Click here to check entrance fees
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